Seattle - Day 3: Fremont hippies + Wyeth at SAM + Psychic Readings

It poured again this morning. It poured so hard that for several minutes I thought, 'this is it. I am done with Seattle. I could end this vacation now--with my wet pants sticking to my cold legs, I could leave and never look back.' But then I went into yoga, back at the Seattle Athletic Club--stretched, strengthened, and perhaps took a doze during meditation--and emerged out into clear skies. Because things work out that way. They absolutely have to when you're on vacation.

Revived by the nice[r] weather, I ventured, via public transportation, to Fremont--a neighborhood that an acquaintance had described as 'artsy,' and some girls at the nail salon yesterday described as a 'hippy area.' Just goes to show you...I'm not sure what exactly...something about perspective.

(It should be noted that Seattle's bus system is terrific--strange, yes--but terrific. There's a 'ride free' zone throughout part of downtown and after that it's just $1.75. The busdrivers are nice. They are helpful. They are totally different from NYC busdrivers.)

First on the Fremont agenda was the Fremont Troll. The troll was a community art project designed in 1990. And just like the '90s, it is ugly, self-indulgent and big. After taking a couple of pictures and watching parents send their young children up the troll for photo opps, I waited. I thought perhaps the troll might spout lava or at least spit up a chewed up villager. It didn't. So I left.

The town of Fremont is everything everyone had said. Artsy and hippy-ish. And sort of awesome. Not to mention, strewn with fantastic foliage.

 

Fremont claims the Center of the Universe. Which is curious as I had always thought that I was the center of the universe.

On Saturday afternoons, the young locals of Fremont apparently come out to square dance.

I asked a store clerk for a lunch recommdation. She told me about a vegetarian restaurant, Silent Heart Nest. She wasn't sure 'what nationality the food was' because its 'like religious or something.' Turns out, according to the restaurant's webpage, that they are followers of a certain Sri Chinmoy. Which isn't actually a religion. But rather a spiritual group (which clearly implements the white woman in sari look). Bordering on a cult (I'm not saying...I'm just saying.)

Because no trip to a metropolis is complete without a visit to the local art museum, I had to head back downtown to the Seattle Art Museum, more familiarly known (check this out, I'm just like a local now) as SAM.

Here were some of the my faves from SAM...

George Segal - Woman on a Bed

Do-Ho Smith - Someone (Made with 40,000 dog tags. Count 'em if you don't believe me.)

I sat down to watch a video on making beads. But secretly I just sat down so that I could stop walking.

Jeff Koons - St. John the Baptist

A man. Viewing a Wyeth.

I also came across a psychic in a last walk through the Pike Place Market. And as I had had a premonition about seeing a psychic while I was here, I took this as a sign.

The first thing she asked me was if I had a problem with my right eardrum. Um, yeah--yeah I do. I have had trouble in my right ear since I was a child and have a hole in my right eardrum from a botched procedure. Wow, I hearted you from the word eardrum, psychic lady.

The rest of her reading lasted an hour. This had something, I'm sure, to do with the fact that she was charging me in 15 minute increments.

Though I can't reveal the rest of our reading which will remain between her, I, and her computerized astro charts, I can tell you that for more pics from Day 3, you can visit the online album. It will make you say 'ooh,' 'ah,' 'fantastico.'

And now, with the hoots and hollers of drunk Belltown residents outside my window...goodnight.

xx * Jessie B. R.

Seattle - Day 2: Space Needle's a bust + views from Queen Anne + Capitol Hill rainshowers

There was no rain on Day One in Seattle. Apparently Day One was a fluke. A bad, bad, misleading fluke.

From the moment I awoke this morning, Seattle was dark and rainy. I would persevere--the solo traveler--despite this, but with slightly more reservation than the day before.

Here are the highlights from my adventures on Day Two...

I headed down to the complimentary breakfast at the Ace to grab some light grub before heading out. The Ace Hotel NYC serves croissants for breakfast. The Ace Hotel Seattle has a make-your-own waffle station. We have a clear winner.

LA and Seattle sensibilities collided as I braved the morning rain for a yoga class at the Seattle Athletic Club.

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A friend told me that I had to stop by a Macrina Bakery while in town. I believe the claim was that you could smell butter out the door. I stopped by Macrina this am, asked the counter girl what the best breakfast item on the menu was, and she suggested the cinnamon bun. The bun happens to be called a 'Roly-Poly.' Um, I'll pass. I went with her second favorite, the Budapest Coffee Cake, instead.

I headed toward the Space Needle, the giant building erected in 1962 for the World's Fair. It's known for its height and its 360 views of the city. I drank the Needle Kool Aid. I paid $16.50 for a ticket up and got 10 minutes worth of hoards of other tourists--most of them unattractive families wearing drab colors and toting around drab children.

This picture is of the view to the West and my favorite.

Next up was Queen Anne, a quaint, mostly residential neighborhood where everything is old school and adorable.

Including the interior of Dick's. I had been advised to get a cheeseburger here. Instead I took this picture.

 

I came across Athina Grill for lunch when I didn't think my bladder would last another block in the rain. While I wasn't hopeful for good Greek food in Seattle, the gentleman at the front was Greek so I figured it couldn't be that bad. It was actually bad-ass. My Greek Salad with falafel and hummus was totally killer.

The restaurant owner's daughter, as it turns out, used to live in LA. He whipped out the business card of a breakfast joint I've got to try in Manhattan Beach, The Local Yolk. What are the chances that a Greek immigrant to Seattle would know better restaurants on LA's beaches than me? God, I love strangers.

The reason folks trek to Queen Anne and then trek even further to its peak is for the view from Kerry Park. I hustled up the steep hills to the top, passing by beautiful 19th century residences on the way.

The flagship Nordstrom store is here in the shopping district of Downtown Seattle. Let me save you the time if you're visiting the city. Nordstrom does not need to go on your itinerary.

I did, however, stop by Sway and Cake--the only small boutique in the shopping district. When I told the clerk I was visiting from LA, the clerk told me that the store was like, totally like LA. Um, yeah. Okay. I did manage to buy some cute items which, yeah, I totally could have scored in LA. Like this House of Harlow ring which I [am sort embarrassed to wear as its Nicole Richie's line, but] sort of adore.

Next up--off to Capitol Hill, a neighborhood know for its eclectic style, its bar scene, and its gays.

Stumptown Coffee is all over Capitol Hill. From its 'I'm too angry and cool-for-school to heed your order' baristas to its free trade mumbo jumbo, it reminded me of a cross between Itelligentsia and Groundwork.

After walking by loads of semi-chi chi restaurants that my wet and ruined bangs were embarrassed to enter into, I settled on Chao Bistro. The food was okay--nothing I couldn't get better of in some other city. But the bartender--bless his heart--introduced me to apple sake. And sake will never be the same.

I didn't make it to a bar tonight and I'd be disappointed in myself if I didn't feel like I was going to keel over.

Here's to a fun and active last full day in Seattle starting tomorrow morning. And hopefully the energy [and courage] to venture into Seattle's nightlife in the evening.

Passing out now,
Jessie B. R.

P.S. - For more pics from Day Two, visit my Picasa album where you'll find shots of naughty stores, the 'other' Melrose Ave and more fun neighborhood adventures.

Seattle - Day 1: Kind Strangers + Pike Place Market + Tourist Traps

Five and a half years ago I decided I wanted to move to Seattle. I think I'd seen an article in a magazine. I'm sure I didn't read the article all the way through. But it all seemed ideal. Artsy, down-to-earth people in a mini-metropolis. What could be quainter and lovelier and more perfect.

We all know how that story ends. I gave up on that fleeting whim and pursued the next one instead when I moved to Los Angeles in 2005. But when something enters my head, it generally doesn't exit easily. And several weeks ago when Virgin America emailed with news of discounted fares to--where else but Seattle--I took it as a sign and booked a ticket.

With the excited recommendations of some friends, a few emailed lists of suggestions, and a handful of post-it notes scribbled with bars and restaurants and people to call on in Seattle, I readied myself for the trip to this city where I don't know anything or anyone or how to get from point a to point b. Cause that's how I roll.

Here's a glimpse at Day One...

ZapCassettes is the project of the super cool guy I met on the bus coming from the airport into Downtown. Cool guy Alex and his friend Sarah had just arrived from Atlanta, GA to go to the Scion Garage Fest in Portland. Alex not only gave me a cassette. But he also wrote down the names of lots of cool bands and artists for me to check out since I'm music ignorant (amongst them - Wanda Jackson, Ty Segall, Yussuf Jerusalem, and Gino Washington. And he also gave me a napkin from his pocket, full of written notes of more spots to check out in Seattle. Lesson learned here: we heart strangers on public transportation.

Ed, the lovely front desk dude at the Ace Hotel, hooked me up with one of the biggest 'Standard' rooms. You can take the girl out of LA. But apparently LA artists will follow the girl everywhere. Wheat-pasted on an entire wall of my room are Shepard Fairey's Andre the Giant images (also featured throughout the NYC Ace where I stayed last time I was back East).

Pike Place Market is a huge, incredible outdoor/indoor farmers market cum food court cum fish outlet.

I cannot identify the long sea creatures with the odd tentacles here. I fear that they may be octopus arms.

My lunch at Matt's in the Market. Roasted Peppers: toasted macrina bakery potato bread, piquillo peppers, sweet peppers, olive tapenade, chevre.

When in Rome...get a Starbuck's Pumpkin Latte. (I did spot the very first Starbuck's at the Market. But authenticity = a tourist trap = a long ass line. This latte came from one of the many other Starbucks that line every street in Seattle.)

At Pioneer Square, an imposing bust of Chief Seattle himself.

I took the Undergroud Tour in Pioneer Square, recommended to me by a lovely lady on my flight. Old Seattle is buried beneath new Seattle. The story involves a glue gun, a fire, and poor city planning. Our tour guide may have suffered an identity crisis between high-level nerd and aspiring stand-up comic. I dug her.

The Seattle Waterfront is beautiful. I believe I was overlooking the Puget Sound. Please don't ask me to verify this.

Seafood joints rule the roost by the Waterfront.

Dr. Martens became a national symbol of grunge here in Seattle. And the boots are still very much alive and kicking (no pun intended).

Sometimes you feel like a nut. Sometimes you feel like a nut taking a picture of yourself with your cell phone, while trying desperately to hide this act from passersby.

My day just ended with dinner at Black Bottle, a chic tapas and wine spot down the street from the Ace. While I don't recommend going alone, it was a nice (translation: they had a seat and they had wine) end to a great day in Seattle, Washington.

I'm off to bed and looking forward to what tomorrow in this new city brings...

For more pics of Seattle - Day 1, visit my Picasa album. Believe me--it will be better than your average vacation slide show. *

* This statement is not a guarantee, nor a promise. The album could, in fact, suck.

Strange and Unsober LA to invade Seattle.

Because it's raining cats and skinny models here in LA, I thought I might as well travel from one wet city to another and am heading to Seattle tomorrow morning to see what all the hype is about. Yes, I realize that I may have built this hype up in my own head as all who've been there keep reminding me of. But I'm excited all the same.

Thanks to many friends [and friends of friends], I've been able to map out a sketch of an itinerary for myself. Literally. I've made a map. Check it out. Click on the icons to see where I'm headed. And if I'm missing any key monuments, tourist traps or other places to empty my wallet while I'm in the grand ole state of Washington, don't hesitate to let me know.

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